An often overlooked gem, the Old quarter of Toledo (el Casco) is surrounded on three sides by the slow-flowing (and sadly rather polluted) Rio Tagus. Narrow cobbled streets, busy with locals and a smattering of tourists, also host a surprisingly large number of cars and vans. Pedestrians and drivers seem to co-exist harmoniously but it's wise to keep your eyes open and move smartly aside when faced by an approaching vehicle. Pedestrians do not command exaggerated respect! Unless you are unfazed by being completely lost in a matter of steps, you will want to arm yourself with a map. Beware that the map supplied by the Tourist Information Office is, confusingly, oriented upside down, i.e. south at the top, but is otherwise clear.
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